Sarah, the cousin of our friend Austin, married William, a Colombian economics professor, and they live on the Colombian Caribbean coast with their little girl. Austin is practically part of our family, making his cousins essentially our extended family, so I followed his instructions and messaged Sarah long before our trip began… Read more
On our third day in the Caribbean, we ventured into more danger than ere we’ve come across. We escaped the bustling city for Pirate Island. It’s where tourists come to claim their gleaming booty of sun and relaxation. It’s also where we found the most upsetting experiences of our trip.
Originally, we thought we’d head to the northern coast of Colombia, spend the night in Cartagena and hop on a bus to Tayrona – a popular national park a few hours northeast of Cartagena. One American couple we met said Tayrona was definitely pretty, but not the best hike in the world. Hm. And the Spanish couple staying in the Amazon with us couldn’t stop going on about how “super enchanting!” Cartagena is. Hm. And we were tired of transportation. Getting to Tayrona from Cartagena requires a lot. Hm.
A travel day. When transportation will likely take more than half of the available daylight, we don’t plan an activity. Instead, we expect to either play accidental urban spelunkers or arrive late enough that the story will be dinner and bed. We were lucky to experience the former… Read more
On Day 17, we took a trip to the small town of Puerto Nariño on the Amazon River. About one hour by powered canoe, it’s popular for a lack of streets, well-manicured walkways, a small museum and common services that can’t be found in the villages. However, we enjoyed the way our Lonely Planet guide spun the quaint, jungle town into an ecotourism destination. Let me translate from “American hippie” into “Amazonian Reality” in the parentheses… Read more
I am not much of a wild animal person and I am not much of a water person. On Day 3 of our stay in the Amazon, I reminded myself that not every single moment of a trip needs to be my favorite, nor does it need to be easy. Such are the days, as it turns out, that are some of the most memorable. Read more
Bwop. Ooo-eee-ooh. Errr-whhrrrr-yoooo.
The sounds of melodic birds woke us up around seven. The jungle cacophony is real – and loud. The timing was right for Elise to do some yoga in the cabin loft overlooking the morning river: Downward Facing Dog, Warrior Pose and Man Rowing Down Amazon.
Today we woke up in a room cooled to a comfortable 68 degrees. It would have been even more notable at the time if we’d had prior experience to the perma-sweat about to come.
After a now typical morning breakfast of two fried eggs, a home-baked roll, a solid coffee and smile upon payment, we headed back to the hotel.
JOHN: I packed the backpacks, keeping the most necessary items accessible – in priority:
We’ve landed in the Amazon and are staying in Leticia for the night. It’s essentially an outpost for the rest of the Colombian Amazon, and we’re cozied up in a cheap hotel room with an AC unit, slow Wi-Fi and dubbed Lion King on TV. It’s awesome. It’s also our last evening this week with such comforts.
We woke up too early – tired and crabby – in Salento.
We woke up too late – hungry and rushing for the bus – in Salento.
We wanted the 7:50am bus to Pereira [map], the workman’s town and capital of the coffee region where we were to catch the plane to the Amazon on the following day. Many mountain-turns and grinded-gears later, our small bus arrived at the Terminales around 9am.
When we told Jorge at Hacienda Guayabal that our next stop was relatively nearby Salento, his face dropped. He launched into the kind of story that every person has about someplace that was dear and has changed, but not for the better. When Jorge was a kid, Salento was quaint, beautiful and affordable. The people used to gather there on the weekends to sell and buy, but now it’s too expensive and they must travel further to sell and buy. Tourism has changed it… Read more
Today we completed our first domestic air travel from Bogota to Periera, a large working class city in western Colombia with connections to the Zona Cafeteria – the coffee zone. Located in the mid-elevations of the Andes mountains, it’s warm, muggy and covered in tropical coffee farms. First stop… Hacienda Guayabal – our splurge for the trip where we’ve read that the service is excellent and the coffee culture authentic.
Louis, John and I hopped in a taxi cab on Friday morning to check out Iza, a nearby pueblo known for its beauty and merengón (a cake-ish treat with a thick layer of jammy-fruitness), before getting the bus to Bogotá.
Louis is a get-things-done kind of fellow. As John and I casually looked for a nice shop where we might put our big backpacks for an hour, he was already inside a building with doors wide open, asking the first person he saw behind a desk to watch our stuff. This request occurred using perhaps 2 Spanish words, a string of Sp-English words and a whole lot of gestures. Smiles exchanged, bags dropped, “muchas gracias” expressed. Louis hadn’t noticed that the office was marked: “Juzgado Municipal ” as in, the municipal judge… Read more
Today we woke up at the Finca de San Pedro. It’s a beautiful villa outside the working class city of Sogamoso, about four hours from Bogotá. With the many travelers, a big communal kitchen, yoga studio and outdoor breakfast, it felt more like travel camp than anything. Read more
Sometime in between the taxi, coach bus, mini-bus, and second taxi rides, I wondered if we had made a mistake. Villa de Leyva is one of the many colonial towns north of Bogotá in an area called Boyacá, and it was starting to feel like too big a pain in the butt to be worth the trip. Once we finished all the transportation, I still wasn’t convinced. Renacer Colombian Highlands seemed like a nice enough hostel above the touristy town, but they were doing some work on the buildings and it was noisy and not tranquil and I couldn’t stop sneezing because the crazy Páramo ecosystem is high and dry. Read more
Whoever said less is more never had chocolate, closet space, rainbows or money. They’ve probably never traveled much either, because you can have so much more fun when you meet people that are as excited to explore a new place as you are.
Yesterday, on our extravagant Mike’s Bike Tour we met Becca… Read more
The weeks leading up to our Colombia adventure, I found myself explaining away the lengthy duration of the trip. “You see,” I said over and over again, “we get to take over 3 weeks because John works for the Jewish Community Centers of Chicago and we’re not Jewish and there are a lot of Jewish holy days in September and I freelance, and don’t you see? We are going to take advantage of this time.” Read more
- Mop. Mop. Sweep. Wash. Rush. Watch a midnight episode of Narcos. Zzzzz.
- 2am. BUZZ! Check. Think. Check. Lock. Exit. Walk. Walk. Run.
- Swipe. Sit. Wait. Relax. O’Hare.
- Wait. Move. Wait. Move. Grumble. Move. Drop bags. Go.
- Wait. Wait. Wait. Wait. Take off shoes. Raise arms up. No pat down. Thanks.
- Take off. Land. Welcome to Florida! Take off. Land. Welcome to Colombia!
What’s the plan Stan?
Stan is one part guidebook, one part local hotel owner, one part fellow tourist and one part spontaneous wanderlust. We have an idea… Read more
It’s almost time to go, however, we’ve been envisioning the experience for months. Soon, imagination will shift to reality at the airport when I smell the Cinnabons and the guy ahead of me in security acts like he hasn’t flown after 9/11. It’ll feel too real when I try to slide into the 12 inches between my airplane seat and the seat in front of me. Wait, that might be nine inches – we’re flying Spirit. In fact, flying Spirit Airlines might be the only answer to the now common question: Read more
Fresh off the presses
- Day 5: “God, I Love Vermont.” September 24, 2017
- Day 4 in New Hampshire: Eating Pine Cones on Smarts Brook Trail September 22, 2017
- Day 3 in New Hampshire: The Real Fearless Ones September 21, 2017
- Day 2 in New Hampshire: The White Mountains September 20, 2017
- Day 1: Kilted New Hampshire: The Highland Festival September 19, 2017
4355 W. Grace
Chicago, IL 60641